What I don’t like that much is the use of tinned wires in the power terminals, which are not advisable as they could cause problems over time. While the micro SD cards are fine, it’s much easier to use a regular thumb drive for moving the sliced files between the computer to the printer. What I love about the TRONXY CRUX 1 is the possibility of using both a micro SD card and a full-size USB drive. It has a STM32F446ZET6 32-bit chip and silent stepper drivers. In the electronics department, we get a CXY-4413 board which is made by Tronxy. I can’t really say if this setup is better or worse compared to the KP3S, as I haven’t used these linear guides too much, but for now they seem a good alternative to linear rails for this application. I would have liked to see the same linear guide setup but TRONXY chose V-slot wheels probably to keep the cost down. Talking about V-slot wheels, they are present on the Z axis of the printer. Having these linear guides should allow the printer to move faster on the X and Y axis without worrying if the wheels are correctly tightened like in the case of V-slot wheels. I first used this type of linear guides on the FLSUN V400, and it’s nice to see a similar setup on the TRONXY CRUX 1. The only annoying thing is the stringing problem present on most prints I did which are probably caused by the lack of proper cooling for the heat break. Still, the CRUX 1 manages to provide good print results even with this extruder, as the extruder steps are correctly calibrated which is nice. When compared to the KP3S from Kingroon, it’s clear that it has a better Direct Drive setup compared to the CRUX, considering that it uses Titan Extruder clone with a 3:1 gear ratio. Besides that, there’s a large section of the heat break which is not in contact with the metal of the extruder meaning that the temperature transition zone is not as sharp as you would want it to be for best results. The good news is that you could replace it with a Copperhead MK8 bi-metal heat break from Slice Engineering, but the bad news is that you might not want to do that, as replacing the extruder would probably give you slightly better results.įor this type of heat break, you won’t be able to print for longer periods of time over 240C as the PTFE tube inside will start to degrade and release harmful fumes. The CRUX 1 is one of the last printers to have an MK8 PTFE lined heat break held in place by a simple nut. After you correctly set it up, it remains consistent and I didn’t have any issues with changing the offset during my time with the printer.Īs previously mentioned, the entire print head of the TRONXY CRUX 1 reminds me of the ANET A8 direct drive extruder, as it uses a similar setup for the hotend, heartbreak, and cooling. On the left side of the machine, we also have a handy little knob used to manually adjust the Z offset. The TRONXY CRUX 1 has a print volume of 180x180x180, but that’s partially blocked by the metallic holders for the glass bed.
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